What Happened at New York Fashion Week: Highlights From Spring 2026

What Happened at New York Fashion Week: Highlights From Spring 2026

September 22, 2025

By Ben Rose


New York Fashion Week opened with a familiar rush and a sharpened mood. Runways and sidewalks leaned into clean lines, clever layering, and tests with new materials. The conversation kept circling around minimal luxury and the credibility of sustainability claims, with designers and attendees reading the room in real time.

Designers in Focus

  • Americana and memory: Brandon Maxwell, Ralph Lauren, Coach, Monse, Todd Snyder

  • Quiet precision: Tory Burch, Daniella Kallmeyer, Rachel Comey

  • Conscious craft: Collina Strada, Christian Siriano, Maria McManus, House of Aama

  • Color and texture studies: Altuzarra, Ulla Johnson, Henry Zankov

  • Youth and play: Off-White, Sandy Liang, Aknvas, Theophilio, Luar

  • Evening and fantasy: Grace Ling, Wiederhoeft, Bach Mai

  • Utility and work notes: Jane Wade, Jason Wu

  • New voice to watch: Amir Taghi

Through a Conscious Lens

A handful of names put responsibility on the record. Christian Siriano’s collaboration with Circ’s recycled lyocell, shown last year, remains a clear reference point. He sent the fabric down the runway and spoke about no-waste thinking and limited production. It represented a fraction of the collection, yet it proved that recycled textiles can read as eveningwear without losing polish.

Collina Strada returned to process and craft in Spring 2026, a reminder that sustainable practice is a cluster of choices. Fabric selection matters. Pattern efficiency matters. Set production and scale matter. Maria McManus underscored this mindset through female-led collaborations across denim, jewelry, and sculptural accessories that favored lasting design over quick novelty. House of Aama’s storytelling acknowledged the history tied to textiles and labor, linking aesthetic choices to cultural memory. Small but telling details surfaced elsewhere too, like upcycled and vintage elements in accessories that extend the life of materials.

Collina Strada Spring/Summer 2026 Collection

Runway images: Penske Media Corporation

Some houses have tested event-level change. Gabriela Hearst has pursued near carbon-neutral show approaches and linked quality to lower impact. That signals the difference between using one eco fabric and building a plan that includes logistics, energy, and afterlife.

Suggested COPALA readings:

Gabriela Hearst Resort 2026 CollectionClaims still land on a spectrum. A couple of recycled looks will not fix a system, yet trials like these can push suppliers and shift expectations. That is how better defaults get built.

Street Style vs Runway

Outside the venues, street style told the story of clothes that travel well from morning to night. Attendees leaned into transitional layering that works for actual living. Leather bombers, camel suede blazers, barn jackets, cropped trenches, and funnel-neck toppers showed up over tees, denim, and easy trousers. Accessories brought personality through stacked rings, considered jewelry, and sharp headwear. Sidewalks often carried more volume than the runways while staying practical for days spent moving between shows.

Runway signals fed this practicality. Michael Kors worked desert hues across roomy tunics, supple leathers, and perforated suedes that feel ready for transit and long itineraries. Simkhai created a coastal mood that elevated tees and denim into refined territory with unbleached finishes and textured lace. This approach resonates with pieces people can fold, pack, and wear again.

COPALA fits neatly into this rhythm. We're thinking a sand Tulum Tee or a sahara Perfect Tee under a blazer, or a white Phoenix Duster over denim for the long walk. A calm base handles the day, and one high-impact element carries the moment.

Suggested COPALA reading: Superheroes Wear Dusters Not Capes

Quiet Luxury’s Plot Twist

Quiet luxury continues to evolve. This season placed restraint beside volume and ornament, sometimes within the same lineup. Precision tailoring and quiet finish held space next to sculptural shapes and statement detail, showing that minimal and expressive ideas can coexist in a single week.

Context matters. In March 2025, coverage from a previous fashion week labeled the mood as maximalist and called quiet luxury finished. That captured the temperature of that cycle. Spring Summer 2026 kept restraint in the room while turning up volume elsewhere. Two tracks, not a single verdict.

Tory Burch’s Spring 2026 illustrated restraint with interest. Reviews noted careful construction, mending-style ribs, inventive collars and lapels, and clean finishing. The collection reads composed and thoughtful, with choices that reward a closer look. Daniella Kallmeyer stayed in the same lane with generous suiting and draped dresses that spoke in a low voice. Rachel Comey’s intimate alleyway show doubled down on everyday layers and smart fabric play. Todd Snyder made the case for relaxed summer suiting that moves easily from day to night.

Tory Burch Spring 2026 The practical takeaway is clear. As logos recede, value shifts to fabric hand, seams, and longevity. Those details carry the weight if the supply chain behind them supports durability and repair. Texture stacking offers a quiet answer to the season’s appetite for more. Suede over ribbed cotton, a mapped stitch, a sculpted collar, and one polished metal note create depth without noise.

Suggested COPALA readings:

Color Stories: Mood vs Function

Two color threads ran in parallel. On the runway and in beauty, pastels and airy brights softened the frame. Orchid touches at Collina Strada and Maria McManus. Pink cloud washes at Area. Lavender shimmer at Zankov. Sky blue at Anna Sui. These choices read like mood lifters and soften the eye without shock.

On the street, neutrals did the grounding. Camel, chocolate, oxblood, and denim blues handled the move from daylight to late shows. Nautical cues surfaced in polished ways at Ralph Lauren, and Monse added flashes of cerulean inside a warehouse beach scene. Treat color like a volume knob. Keep the core in sand, moss, clay, and sahara. Add one precise hit when more presence is needed.

Michael Kors Spring 2026 collection

For COPALA, this loops back to sand, moss, clay, and sahara. The palette reads calm and steady in a week full of visual noise, and it pairs easily with trenches, cropped jackets, and other outer layers that dominated outside the tents.

Suggested COPALA readings:

NYFW as Cultural Platform

The week doubled as a cultural stage. Some presentations turned into living stories. Rachel Antonoff and Susan Alexandra staged a show that paired custom looks with shelter dogs in need of homes, exemplifying how cause meets style without losing lightness. Luar’s Carnival ode chose joy and light-chasing headpieces inside a mostly dark room, a reminder that attitude carries. Jason Wu honored Robert Rauschenberg with layered textiles and airy organza, folding art history into modern silhouettes. Jane Wade’s industrial set for The Fulfillment leaned into utility and tech details, a nod to work and making. Sandy Liang played with childhood memory through bunnies, ruffled lace, and oversized buttons that felt like keepsakes. Off-White’s high school setting framed youth culture as present tense, not a throwback. Coach revisited postcards of American cities with lived-in leathers and patchwork icons that still read current.

Taken together, these choices show how fashion week functions as more than a schedule. It is a place where craft teams, casting, sets, music, and community overlap in real time.

The Nomadic Reality

NYFW functions as an urban pilgrimage. Long days, changeable weather, and quick turnarounds reward clothing that moves. A working uniform surfaced again and again. A tee, tonal pants, and an adaptable jacket handle cabs, subways, venue lines, and late dinners without fuss. That is why the same core items return in photos each season. They fold, pack, and repeat across settings with minimal decision making.

Designers mirrored this logic. Todd Snyder’s relaxed tailoring, Michael Kors’s desert palette, and Simkhai’s sea-washed textures point to pieces that shift from show to city without losing shape. It is not about chasing a look for a single photo. It is about building a small rotation that works under real pressure.

Suggested COPALA reading: Warm Winter Escapes for Digital Nomads

Altuzarra Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Closing Notes

Photo: Jonas Gustavsson/Getty Images
Last season’s coverage declared quiet luxury over. This season shows it evolving alongside statement dressing. The useful move is to read both tracks and invest in what endures. The week did not solve sustainability. It did make a clear case for craft and usability on runways and on sidewalks. For a conscious reader, those are the signals to track. Materials that last. Construction you can feel. Palettes that reduce decision fatigue. Experiments that move past a single look and into everyday life.

Suggested COPALA reading: What to Expect at Milan Fashion Week Men's Fall/Winter 2025/26

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